A Day in Burgundy at The Cook’s Atelier – Cooking, Connection, and a Taste of French Life in Beaune.

Some experiences are more than just events on a travel itinerary, they become part of your story. My time at The Cook’s Atelier, in Beaune, Burgundy, was exactly that.

Nestled in a quiet street near the Hotel de Ville, this family-run cooking school offered more than culinary skills; it gave me a sense of belonging, warmth, and inspiration. In this second part of my trip to Beaune, I share what it was like to step into their world—where food is love, stories are shared over wine, and even a solo traveller can feel part of the family.

When planning my three-day trip to Beaune in Burgundy, France, to visit The Cook’s Atelier, I carefully researched hotels and Chambres d’hôtes in the area. I wanted somewhere reasonably priced, centrally located, ideally within walking distance of The Cook’s Atelier, the train station, and the town centre and, importantly, somewhere that felt safe for a solo female traveller.

The Central Boutique Hotel ticked most of the boxes. It was perhaps less “boutique,” more clean, comfortable, with friendly staff and, as the name suggests, centrally located. Everything I needed was within a short stroll, which made it a practical and reassuring choice.

On this particular weekend, the Friday night price increased significantly, so I looked for an alternative hotel for my final evening. I found Hotel Henry II, another comfortable hotel, just a five-minute walk from The Cook’s Atelier and around fifteen minutes from the train station, ideal for my Saturday lunchtime departure. With a noon checkout, the timing worked well. What I hadn’t factored in, though, was the minor hassle of packing, checking out, and then wheeling my suitcase across town and keeping it with me until check-in opened at 3pm. It wasn’t far, but it is one of those small logistics worth bearing in mind.  I enjoy trying different hotels but sometimes the ease of staying put, even if a little more expensive can prove the better option.

Dragging my small suitcase along Rue de Lorraine, I approached the distinctive charcoal-grey facade of The Cook’s Atelier. With its flower-boxed shuttered windows, canopy, and iconic vintage bicycle propped outside, it looked like a postcard. I had briefly stopped by the day before to introduce myself and confirm the start time for the day, and had been warmly welcomed by Laurent.

Now, as I climbed the stone steps and pushed open the glass door, I was met again by Laurent, and by Russo the dog, dozing on the tiled floor, completely unfazed by my arrival. “Hi,” said Laurent, “lovely to see you again, would you like a coffee?”

I felt as if I had stepped not only into a beautiful French shop—with its wooden tabletops, wicker baskets, wooden-handled cooking utensils, and walls lined with wine, but into the home of a familiar friend, and yet we had only just met.

While Laurent kindly stored my luggage and made me a coffee, I wandered the store, enchanted by the elegant, earthy displays: copper pots, knives, salt mills, spices, linen, flan tins, whisks, baskets, vintage jugs, and glass jars. A few things stood out. Firstly, how beautifully curated the space was, everything was part of a harmonious colour palette. Secondly, there wasn’t a single plastic utensil in sight, and thirdly, the building itself was extraordinary.

The front part of the store was devoted to wine and kitchenware. In the middle, a small counter doubled as a coffee bar. At the back, the space opened into a stunning atrium filled with light. An old wooden staircase led up to the cookery school on the first floor, with its glass windows overlooking the shop. Another staircase took you to the third floor, where the dining room basked in more light through large glass panels.

As I admired the space, I heard a cheerful American voice: “Hello, hello! I’m Marjorie—or Marj—and this is Kendall.” The mother-daughter duo and founders of the world renowned cooking school, who I had so long wanted to meet, had arrived.

Their story is not only inspiring, it’s deeply relatable, particularly if, like me, you have children who live away from you. If you read just one thing after this blog, let it be their book French at Heart. In it, Marjorie and Kendall share their journey, along with delicious recipes and their philosophy around food and family.

As a single mother in America, Marjorie created a home where mealtimes were sacred. A restauranteur by trade, she supported Kendall’s love of France, which took her to study and eventually work in French wine. After meeting and marrying Laurent, Kendall settled in Beaune—and together, she and Marjorie nurtured the dream of opening a cookery school and the natural desire to remain connected in each others daily lives.

The book shares the joys and challenges of making that dream a reality—from Marjorie’s first eventful encounter with Laurent to their efforts to build a home and community in Beaune. It’s a love letter to food, family, risk-taking, and following your heart.

Back at the Atelier, our intimate group of six (a real treat and rarity, as groups are often 8 - 10), followed Marjorie and Kendall upstairs to the cookery school. A Day in Burgundy, isn’t a traditional hands-on class where everyone makes the same dish. Instead, it’s a collaborative and observational experience, full of tips, tastings, and shared moments, culminating in a long lunch together.

The kitchen itself was pure French charm: a cream Lacanche range cooker adorned with copper pans, a central table laid with wooden boards, aprons, and utensils. A cream SMEG fridge stood proudly by the open window, with a view over the Patriarche winery below.

We introduced ourselves, a retired couple from Birmingham, Alabama who were well traveled had an amazing catalogue of restaurant recommendations. Alex from New York who was a keen cook and so was returning for a second visit, and a mother and daughter from Paris who were embarking on a similar adventure to Marjorie and Kendall at their farm near Paris..

Our first dish was gougères, the iconic cheesy choux buns of Burgundy. Marjorie demonstrated the method, offering invaluable tips while each of us contributed, stirring, piping, learning how to handle unfamiliar tools. When the gougères went into the oven, we moved on to preparing the beef.

Marjorie and Kendall worked seamlessly, one teaching, the other prepping or keeping an eye on the stove. Their natural rhythm created an ease in the room that soon rubbed off on us all. As each course progressed, we relaxed into the process and into each other’s company.

After preparing the fillet of beef, learning to tie and sear it, we turned to dessert. Kendall talked us through using quality, seasonal ingredients, most of which is sourced from Beaune’s Saturday market. Marjorie and Kendall are passionate about minimising waste, supporting local producers, and using all parts of the animal. Their chickens (though not enough to supply the school) benefit from the composted scraps and return the favour with eggs.

Soon we were whisking soufflés, making sauces, and finding joy in simplicity.

As Russo reappeared, clearly ready for lunch, we followed his lead upstairs to the dining room. The table was elegantly French: white embroidered linen napkins, bone-handled cutlery, clear glassware, tea lights, and tall daisies in bud vases. A charcuterie board and the freshly baked gougères welcomed us as Laurent poured a François Secondé Grand Cru champagne. As we toasted to good health and new friends,  it truly felt like being in someone’s home.

Course by course, the meal unfolded: a fennel salad, cheese soufflé, beef medallions with béarnaise sauce, mushrooms, and asparagus, followed by a strawberry tart and a regional cheese board from the specialist fromagerie in Beaune.

Each dish was expertly paired with wine—Laurent Cognard Pouilly-Loché Aux Barres, and Domaine Chevalier Lacroix 1er Cru Les Corvées, and finished with coffee and a classic madeleine.

Over this long, slow lunch, we connected deeply, sharing travel stories, swapping restaurant and hotel recommendations, laughing at coincidences. By the end, we were exchanging contact details and warm hugs.

Before leaving, I picked up Marjorie and Kendall’s two cookery books, both kindly signed, and we said our goodbyes in the way that only people who have shared something meaningful can.

That evening, after checking into my new hotel and wandering back into town, I didn’t feel like a big meal, just a snack before an early night, ready to be up early to visit the infamous Saturday market.

The next morning, I packed my bag and left it ready for checkout before heading off for one final adventure, the Beaune market. It seemed the entire town was making its way there. I followed the flow toward the main square in front of the historic Hôtel-Dieu.

I took a quick detour to Crème, just off the square, for a granola bowl and coffee. Then it was on to the market itself, vibrant, colourful, and full of life. There were stalls of fruit and vegetables, olives, bread, cheese, spices, and flowers. Inside the covered market were fresh fish, meat, eggs, and truffles. Along another street leading toward the Notre-Dame church were clothes and household goods. In the main square, antiques and brocante were on display. A quartet played cheerful music in the bandstand while people sipped coffees at pavement cafés.

It felt like something from a film—the setting, the sunshine, the music, the joy. A perfect French Saturday morning.

As I took it all in, I found myself wishing, just for a moment, that this was my regular weekend shop, instead of my usual supermarket dash back home. That fleeting longing to belong, to slow down, to know where your food comes from, it stayed with me as I glanced at the time and prepared to say goodbye to Beaune.

I took one last look at the magical market ambiance and headed back to my hotel to check out. While walking, a practical thought struck me, those two beautiful cookery books I had bought were not just heavy in sentiment, but in actual weight. My luggage, back or indeed Easy Jet would not thank me.

Passing the familiar doorway of The Cook’s Atelier, I decided to pop in. As I pushed open the glass door, I was welcomed into the now comforting space and greeted by Marjorie, Kendall, and Laurent, who were chatting with a customer sipping coffee. In moments, I was introduced to the customer, who turned out to be a neighbour and close friend. It felt, once again, like stepping into a family kitchen, warm, easy, generous.

I asked if Laurent would mind arranging a courier for the books if I brought them back shortly. Of course, he was more than happy to help. We said our goodbyes again, with a promise that I would return, next time for their five-day course, which includes a visit to The Woodland House, Kendall and Laurent’s family home, and their new fabulous kitchen barn.  This is where their slow, seasonal cooking comes to life in another more rustic dimension. As I pulled the door closed behind me, it honestly felt like I was leaving family.

Bags in hand, I began the short walk to the train station and, as if Beaune wanted to give me one last hug, I bumped into the same neighbour I had just been introduced to. She asked warmly whether I had enjoyed Beaune and surprisingly, if I would ever consider moving to France. A strange question from a relative stranger, yet the answer came quickly: most definitely I would - yes!  She kindly offered directions along the most beautiful route to the station, down a tree-lined path that passed the old château. It was stunning. Beaune kept giving, right to the end.

In truth, I had barely scratched the surface of this enchanting town. There is so much more to explore in Beaune itself, not to mention the surrounding wine villages and the nearby city of Dijon.

As I walked back along Avenue Du Huit Septembre 1944, my heart felt full. Joy, contentment, and a quiet sense of knowing that this experience would stay with me. Beaune is, without a doubt, an experience in its own right. And The Cook’s Atelier? It’s something truly special. Marjorie, Kendall, and Laurent form a perfect triangle, each bringing their own strength, complementing each other in perfect harmony. Whether you are travelling with friends, a partner, or alone, you are made to feel part of the family and if you are travelling solo, you never feel alone.

As I settled into my carriage on the journey from Dijon to Geneva, my excitement and attention turned back to my own family and thought of spending some precious time with my own daughter. Travel is amazing but even better when it connects us with those we love. I can certainly understand Marjorie’s desire to be part of Kendall’s life in France but for now I am so grateful for these opportunities.

Marjorie and Kendall often say to their guests, "Spread the love – butter is optional."

So here I am, doing just that—spreading the love, lashing it with butter, adding a dollop of homemade jam, a sprinkle of Beaune, and of course… a side glass of delicious Burgundy wine.

Whether you are travelling alone, with family or friends, I would certainly add ‘A Day in Burgundy’ at The Cooks Atelier to your Burgundy itinerary. I hope to return next year to discover The Woodland House and the 5 day course and of course uncover more of the delights of Beaune and this wonderful region of Burgundy.

If you would just like to try some of Marjorie and Kendall’s favourite French recipes, then you may want to treat yourself to ‘French at Heart’, it can be ordered directly from the shop The Cooks Atelier and I have no doubt that Laurent will package it and send it to you personally.

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