Experiencing Scotland: Edinburgh to St Andrews

A birthday trip to Scotland gave me the chance to revisit some favourite places, spend time with dear friends and discover a few new experiences along the way. From Edinburgh to Cromlix and St Andrews, I am sharing a little of what makes each special, along with a reminder that life doesn’t always go to plan…

There is always something magical about crossing a country's border and seeing a ‘Welcome to’ sign. I always feel I have stepped through a portal, that invisible line offering something new, exciting and different. Whether that be a language, a landscape, culture, people, traditions or history, there is always something to discover.

When my husband and I were first married, we lived between Carlisle and the Lake District. One weekend we would hike around Lake Ullswater or explore the Lakeland villages; the next, we would head towards Hadrian's Wall and Newcastle, and often we would take the short drive north, stepping excitedly into Scotland.

It gave us the opportunity to explore the pretty border villages along the coast or head to Edinburgh or Glasgow. Each August we would explore the varied and creative shows at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, taking in the spectacle of the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, before heading home again.

When we left Cumbria, it was to move to France to manage a ski chalet for the season, followed by a period living in New Zealand. Returning to the UK when we were expecting our son and chose to settle near Stratford-upon-Avon to raise our family.

Over the years we visited Scotland for holidays as a family, but it wasn’t until our son chose to go to university there, that we found ourselves with the perfect excuse to visit Scotland more often.

University in Scotland is typically 4 years and not 3. We took advantage of the annual pick up and drop off trips in September and June (and several visits in-between), to travel around and explore more of this beautiful country, discovering places, experiences, makers and hotels that have stayed with us.

You haven't fully experienced Scotland without popping into a whisky distillery or two. You don't have to travel far to find one, but if you want a more immersive experience, a road trip is a must. Not the most environmentally friendly option, I know, but we now have an electric car, which gives us a good excuse to stop along the way and recharge body, mind and car!

A recent birthday trip took me back to two places I love to visit, with a stop off on route to discover another beautiful location, that had been on my wish list for a while. I would love to share these places with you, along with a few experiences that can make your visit there even more memorable.

Edinburgh: A city best discovered on foot

A trip to Scotland inevitably begins in Edinburgh, and rightly so. It really is a beautiful city, with the added advantage of being close to the coast.

However you arrive, you will probably find yourself on Princes Street, Edinburgh's main shopping street, running alongside Princes Street Gardens, with the unmissable castle perched above you.

There is so much to see and discover, but rather than attempt to provide a comprehensive guide, I want to share a few of the places I enjoyed on my recent visit and a walking route that allows you to experience a taste of Edinburgh in a day.

I was travelling alone on this day, as my husband was working.  If am a visiting a popular destination, I do try where possible to mindful of my impact on popular tourist hot spots, if I want to visit a particular popular location or experience, I try and schedule these visits for times of the day when there may be fewer visitors or I avoid them altogether if necessary. Where possible I nip along side streets or back roads and try to seek out independent shops and experiences, as well as the more popular places that I feel are worth visiting.

Starting at the Scott Monument on Princes Street, just a short walk from Waverley railway station, I headed towards Leith Street and Leith Walk. This area is associated with Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the creator of Sherlock Holmes, whose birthplace was nearby. Although his former family home no longer stands, a life-size statue of Sherlock Holmes commemorates the author.

If you continue into Broughton Street, you will find independent and artisan shops, including Lifestory and Curiouser & Curiouser for gifts and interesting finds, alongside The Big Cheese deli.

This is the sort of neighbourhood I love discovering. You can browse the independent shops, find something unexpected and stop for a coffee or light lunch.

Stor Lifestyle is worth seeking out. Stor combines a lifestyle shop, florist and coffee shop, and occasionally hosts workshops, from beeswax candle-making to therapeutic perfume-making and floristry. My coffee, complete with dragon art, and a cinnamon bun made for a very welcome break.

While admiring the beautiful collection of home and lifestyle books, I got chatting to the owner, who kindly recommended other book shops that I might enjoy: Wild Fungarium, which specialises books on the natural world, and the Botanics Shop at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, for all things botanical and floral

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It is one of the things I enjoy about independent shops. You often leave with more than you came for, whether that is a new discovery, a recommendation or simply a conversation.

Just a short walk away, on the corner of Blenheim Place, is another popular book store Topping & Company Booksellers, housed in a former bank. Its higgledy-piggledy rooms, bookshelves across several floors and signature rolling library ladders make it a wonderful place to lose yourself for a while.

If like me, you love books, allow yourself some time here. There is something rather lovely about wandering through a bookshop without a particular title in mind and seeing what catches your eye.

From this artisan and literary corner of Edinburgh, head towards St James Quarter and Multrees Walk if you fancy a little retail therapy. Multrees Walk is home to luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Gucci, but more importantly it leads you to St Andrew Square.

Edinburgh's New Town was developed in the eighteenth century as the Old Town became increasingly overcrowded. The new town was designed around two squares connected by three streets a central street named George Street, Queen Street to the north and Princes Street to the south.  The two squares were named St Andrews Square and Charlotte Square.

These elegant Georgian streets and squares offer a very different atmosphere from the narrow medieval streets of the Old Town, and the contrast is one of the things that makes Edinburgh so interesting.

St Andrew Square is home to the Melville Monument, a towering column topped by a statue of Henry Dundas, and is surrounded by shops, restaurants and hotels, including Harvey Nichols, Gleneagles Townhouse and The Edinburgh Grand. If your feet are beginning to tire, you can also pick up a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus here.

Otherwise, cross the square and choose between George Street, with its elegant architecture and upscale shops, restaurants and bars, or Rose Street, which has a more informal, characterful feel.

Rose Street is pedestrianised and known for its pubs and alehouses, but you will also find seafood restaurants and independent shops. As you walk, look out for the stories hidden in its history, from its links with Scottish poets to the McVitie family business, which would go on to become famous for biscuits, including the digestive.

When you reach Charlotte Square, you will find the statue of Prince Albert on horseback, Bute House, the official residence of Scotland's First Minister, and the National Trust for Scotland's headquarters. The elegant Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel can be found here.

From Charlotte Square, it is time to leave the New Town and head towards the Old Town.

You can continue along George Street to enjoy more of the Georgian architecture, or head back towards Princes Street and walk through Princes Street Gardens. I chose the gardens, which offer a welcome change of pace from the busy shopping streets, with views towards the castle and some fascinating monuments along the way.

Look out for the Scott Monument and the statue of Wojtek, the Soldier Bear. Wojtek was a Syrian brown bear adopted by Polish soldiers during the Second World War. He travelled with the 22nd Artillery Supply Company of the Polish II Corps and became famous for helping to carry ammunition crates during the Italian campaign. After the war, he lived at Edinburgh Zoo and polish soldiers would visit him and throw him cigarettes, as he was used to sharing them with the soldiers during combat.  It was said that he responded excitedly to polish voices and those from his old unit. Wojtek remained at the zoo until his death in 1963,

It is an unexpected story to discover on a city walk and a reminder that the history of a place is not always found in its grand buildings.

From the gardens, head towards The Mound, which connects the New Town with the Old Town. The route climbs uphill and can be steep in places, but there are alternative routes and local buses if you prefer to avoid the climb. Along the way, you will pass the Scottish National Gallery and the Royal Scottish Academy. Sadly I didn’t have the time to visit on this occasion but definitely worth exploring with a host of exhibitions and events.

Continue towards Ramsay Lane and Castlehill, where you join the Royal Mile, the historic route stretching between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. If you would like to visit the castle, it is worth booking tickets in advance.

The Royal Mile can become very busy, but take your time. Admire the architecture, pause when a view opens up across the city and explore some of the narrow passageways branching off the main street. These medieval alleyways are known as closes or wynds, and many have steep steps leading down towards other parts of the city.

Near the castle, The Witchery offers a very different experience of Edinburgh. Dating to 1595, Its atmospheric interiors and candlelit setting make it a memorable place for lunch or afternoon tea. I have visited for afternoon tea before, which was a wonderful experience, and it is somewhere I would happily return.

As you continue along the Royal Mile, look out for The Hub, with its distinctive Gothic spire, and the viewpoint towards Victoria Street, with its colourful shopfronts curving below. You can descend the steps to Victoria Street or continue towards Lawnmarket and Lady Stair's Close, home to the Writers' Museum. Entry is free, and the museum celebrates Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

Further along, St Giles' Cathedral and Parliament Square are worth a pause. Nearby, is St Giles Street, once known as the fleet street of Scotland.  At the end of St Giles Street you will see The News Steps, which link St Giles Street to Market Street via a 124 step winding staircase.   Providing quick links to Waverley Station. Today the News Steps metal railings along the staircase are embellished with love padlocks. Further along the street is Kiltane, a Scottish cashmere specialist worth exploring if you are looking for something distinctly Scottish to take home. Kiltane cafe also offers a good place to linger for a pastry and coffee.

Opposite St Giles cathedral, you will find The Real Mary King's Close, an underground visitor attraction offering an insight into the preserved streets and spaces beneath the city. It is worth considering if you have time to book another experience into your day.

From here, you can continue along the Royal Mile towards the Palace of Holyroodhouse, allowing around 15 minutes or so to walk from the cathedral area, depending on your pace. Alternatively, turn down Cockburn Street to begin making your way back towards Waverley Station.

Cockburn Street is one of those streets I love to explore: curved, full of character and lined with independent shops, vintage finds, cafés and restaurants. Its distinctive architecture makes it feel quite different from the broad Georgian streets of the New Town.

I walked this route comfortably in a day, stopping for coffee and lunch and allowing myself time to browse. You could just as easily spread it over two days, leaving time to explore the castle, visit a museum or enjoy a longer lunch or afternoon tea at The Witchery.

If you are visiting Edinburgh alone, it is a lovely way to experience the city independently, with plenty of opportunities to stop, discover something unexpected and follow your curiosity. And if you are travelling with a friend, there are many places to browse, talk and catch up along the way.

I have only scratched the surface of the central New and Old towns of Edinburgh, and there are still museums and streets I have yet to explore. That is the beauty of returning to somewhere you love: there is always another reason to go back.

Cromlix: A country house with a warm welcome

Leaving Edinburgh behind, the following day was my birthday and our journey took us towards St Andrews, with a stop at Cromlix Hotel near Dunblane. Somewhere I have wanted to visit.

As you approach Cromlix for the first time, you are struck by its location. It feels wonderfully rural, almost in the middle of nowhere. Turning into the long, tree-lined driveway, you wait in anticipation for your first sighting of the house, and it doesn't disappoint.

The Victorian country house dates back to the nineteenth century and was bought by Andy and Kim Murray in 2013. The couple married at Cromlix in 2015, and tennis is never far from the conversation, with two immaculate courts in the grounds and a basket of tennis balls by the front door for its four-legged guests, affectionately welcomed into the Fetch Club. Game, set, fetch!

We sadly only had time for morning coffee on this visit, as we were heading to St Andrews, but we could not have been made to feel more welcome.

The decor is beautifully curated, with collaborations with local Scottish artisans. The fire was lit in the drawing room, with a dog snoozing in front of it, and we were invited to explore the eclectic art collection, a mix of classic and contemporary pieces that works beautifully within the relaxed country house setting.

I was also invited to see the chapel, tucked just off the drawing room and down a small flight of stairs. It is a beautiful, intimate space, perfect for a wedding or christening.

We were really rather sad to leave, particularly as the lunch menu looked fabulous, but we will definitely return.

Cromlix also hosts a selection of experiences throughout the year, from creative workshops and wreath-making to wellbeing days and special events and talks, each including afternoon tea. If you are planning a visit, it is worth looking at what is happening during your stay.

St Andrews: Coastal discoveries and time to unwind

Arriving in St Andrews always feels like returning home in many ways. It holds a lot of happy memories, and it is such a relaxing place to be. You certainly don't have to be a student or a golfer to enjoy all that it has to offer.

As you enter the town, Belgove Farm Shop is a good place to stop, whether you want to pick up local supplies or enjoy lunch.

Another lovely coffee stop is Herbs at the Old Course Hotel. Sitting just in front of the main hotel entrance, Herbs is beautifully decorated, with food and drink served in a delicate sage-green fine bone china tea service that feels perfectly in keeping with its botanical name.

St Andrews is a coastal town with a rich history. It is home to Scotland's oldest university, founded in 1413, the remains of a medieval castle and the ruined cathedral, which dates back to the twelfth century.

The compact town is easy to explore on foot, with local shops, restaurants and cafes tucked along its streets. If you like sweet things, make time for Fisher & Donaldson bakery in the centre of town, famous for its fudge doughnut: a light doughnut with a custard filling, topped with fudge. Ignore the calories; they really are delicious!

The coastline is another reason to visit. St Andrews has three beaches: Castle Sands, East Sands and West Sands. West Sands is the largest, a two-mile stretch of sand and dunes made famous by the film Chariots of Fire.

One of my favourite beaches, however, is across the estuary from St Andrews. Tentsmuir Sands, within Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve and Forest, is a beautiful place to walk, with fabulous views across the water towards the town. If you have time, it is well worth making the short journey out of town to experience a different side of the coastline.

We stayed at the Old Course Hotel, where the service, food and room were excellent. We were impressed by the complimentary EV charging for our car, but it was the Kohler Waters Spa experience that was really worth travelling for.

The hydrotherapy suite invites you to move between hot and cold experiences, known as contrast therapy, alongside a steam room, pool, relaxation lounge, cafe and optional treatments. It was a wonderfully relaxing yet invigorating experience, and a lovely way to spend time away from the everyday.

If you don't have time for an overnight stay, there are spa-day experiences to choose from. It could be a lovely way to spend a few hours if you are visiting your son or daughter at university, or if your partner is out on the golf course!

St Andrews is easy to reach by public transport from Edinburgh. The train journey to Leuchars takes just over an hour, followed by a local bus journey of around 15 minutes, depending on traffic. If you are driving, there is parking near West Sands and elsewhere around the town.

For me, St Andrews is a place where you can combine several different experiences in a relatively small area: a little history, independent shops, a walk along the coast, a good meal and time to unwind. It is just as enjoyable for a day visit as it is for a longer stay.

That is the joy of travel. It is not simply about visiting somewhere new, but about the experiences you discover along the way, the people who welcome you, the stories you uncover and the places that make you want to return.

This particular trip was to celebrate my own birthday and to join a group of dear friends for a surprise birthday gathering for another close friend at a Scottish hunting lodge. We had been looking forward to it for some time. Sadly, the morning after my birthday, my mother-in-law died suddenly and we made the decision to return home early, staying only briefly to share in our friend's celebrations.

Life doesn't always go to plan, and sometimes the things that matter most remind us of that. It brought home to me the importance of making time for the places we want to visit, the experiences we want to enjoy and, above all, the people we want to share them with. Not everything needs to be a grand adventure; sometimes it is simply about how and where we invest our time.

Scotland will still be there to explore another time, with its rich history, talented artisans, incredible scenery and wonderful food. I have many more Scottish places and experiences to share, and I look forward to taking you to the Highlands on another journey.

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